play Up One Level not an important image Scrambling Photos from Mount NoyesSeptember 12, 2009


Mount Noyes is a very scenic and pleasant moderate scramble on the East side of the Icefields Parkway just North of Bow Summit. The ascent route is up a small valley on the South West side of the mountain. You will need to find your own way into this valley as there is no trail. The forest involves a bit of moderate scrambling before you reach the alpine valley. Once in the valley turn 90 degrees to the left and go up scree to get around a headwall that surrounds the whole valley. Once above the headwall traverse up and across scree and boulders to the summit block of Mount Noyes. Go up the middle of the face of Mount Noyes through mostly scree to reach the summit. The crux is a small short gully that involves some moderate scrambling.Descend the way you came. Should take most people between 6 and 9 hours.

I led my first trip with the ACC up Mount Noyes this weekend. It couldn't have gone better. I had 2 participants from Canmore that I led on this trip that were great company. We started in the pulloff for the overflow campground. We crossed the road and proceeded up steep forest to the hanging valley leading to the South West slopes of Mount Noyes. The forest had a few rock bands that we had to scramble through. I would say that the forest was probably the most difficult part of the ascent. Once into the hanging valley we had to turn 90 degrees to the left up scree to avoid the cliffband that spanned the rest of the valley. Once above the cliffband we traversed up big rocks over the drop off toward the West ridge of Mount Noyes. I left a cairn at the top of the scree to indicate where to start traversing. I left another one further up on a boulder. We took a break beside a huge boulder and had lunch. Toshiko fed me some delicious Japanese cuisine. Thanks again, Toshiko. After our break we headed up scree over a small ice/snow patch to the West ridge. Awesome views at this point. From there I led us up the South West face through mostly screewith some short hands on sections. The crux was a small short moderate gully.

Once on the summit, we relaxed for a long time and had more to eat. The views were terrific and the weather could not have been better. I wish that the visibility had been this good on Mount Chephren. I took many photos and a great summit panorama. For this particular panorama I took 2 different panoramas with different exposures and stitched them all together. Hugin, my panorama program blended the photos together to create a panorama with a high dynamic range. I plan to do this more often with my summit panoramas. It turned out really well. It turns out that we were the only party that had ascended this year thus far that had signed the summit register.

We followed the same route down staying close together to prevent us from dropping rocks on each other. Once back in the hanging valley we refilled our water in a stream leaching out of the ground. There was a really large marmot here that I photographed. On the way down the forest we deviated from our ascent route and ended up bottoming out in Noyes Creek. We followed the creek back to the highway

Click on the play button in the top left to start the slideshow or click on any picture to enlarge it. Use the icons on the top left to navigate.


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Howse Peak alpine glow.
Howse Peak alpine glow.
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Mount Chephren alpine glow.
Mount Chephren alpine glow.
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Howse Peak
Howse Peak
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White Pyramid and Mount Chephren
White Pyramid and Mount ...
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Kazuyuki and Toshiko scrambling through the forest.
Kazuyuki and Toshiko ...
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Mistaya Lake.
Mistaya Lake.
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Mount Patterson.
Mount Patterson.
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Mount Patterson.
Mount Patterson.
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Breaker Mountain
Breaker Mountain
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The view across the valley to the West. Mount Patterson on the left. Mistaya Lake in the center. Breaker Mountain above it. The Waterfowl Lakes are on the right. The high peaks on the right are Howse Peak, White Pyramid and Mount Chephren.
The view across the valley to ...
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Mistaya Lake.
Mistaya Lake.
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Breaker Mountain
Breaker Mountain
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Mount Patterson and the Snowbird Glacier.
Mount Patterson and the ...
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Waterfowl Lakes.
Waterfowl Lakes.
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White Pyramid and Mount Chephren.
White Pyramid and Mount ...
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The scree ascent that we went up to avoid the headwall at the end of the valley.
The scree ascent that we went ...
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Kazuyuki ascending the scree. Barbette Mountain and Parapet Peak are the icy peaks in the background.
Kazuyuki ascending the scree. ...
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More of the scree terrain.
More of the scree terrain.
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Mount Noyes.
Mount Noyes.
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Barbette Mountain and Parapet Peak to the West. The glacier is Barbette Glacier.
Barbette Mountain and Parapet ...
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Waterfowl Lakes.
Waterfowl Lakes.
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The second lower peak of Mount Noyes.
The second lower peak of ...
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Howse Peak, White Pyramid and Mount Chephren.
Howse Peak, White Pyramid and ...
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Looking North West to Epaulette Mountain, Kaufmann Peaks and Mount Sarbach. Mount Erasmus is to the right of Mount Sarbach and further back. Mount Amery is the pyramid on the far right.
Looking North West to ...
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Ascending scree on the South Face.
Ascending scree on the South ...
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Ascending scree on the South Face.
Ascending scree on the South ...
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The view across the valley.
The view across the valley.
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Kazuyuki entering the crux gully.
Kazuyuki entering the crux ...
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Kazuyuki scrambling up the crux gully.
Kazuyuki scrambling up the ...
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More scree slogging.
More scree slogging.
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More scrambling.
More scrambling.
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Mount Weed to the South.
Mount Weed to the South.
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Looking far South to Peyto Lake.
Looking far South to Peyto ...
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Looking down to Mistaya Lake.
Looking down to Mistaya Lake.
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Mount Loudon and Siffleur Mountain to the North East.
Mount Loudon and Siffleur ...
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Observation Peak to the South. Mount Hector on the left.
Observation Peak to the ...
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Looking far South West to Mount Mummery on the left. Mount Barlow on the right.
Looking far South West to ...
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A panorama of the Freshfield Icefield Peaks to the far South West.
A panorama of the Freshfield ...
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Looking West to Howse Peak on the far left. White Pyramid and Mount Chephren on the right. The very top of Mount Forbes is visible above White Pyramid.
Looking West to Howse Peak on ...
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Me with White Pyramid and Mount Chephren behind. Waterfowl Lakes below.
Me with White Pyramid and ...
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Me with the North summit of Mount Noyes behind.
Me with the North summit of ...
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Looking North to an unnamed outlier of Murchison another probable scramble.
Looking North to an unnamed ...
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Looking far North Corona Ridge is on the right. The left ridge is unnamed. Mount Cline is the high peak on the left.
Looking far North Corona ...
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Quill Peak to the East.
Quill Peak to the East.
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Looking far East to Mount Perren.
Looking far East to Mount ...
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Looking far West to the Lyells. Epaulette Mountain and Kaufmann Peaks in front. Mount Bryce on the far right.
Looking far West to the ...
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Looking far South to the Wapta Icefield and Peyto Lake. Mount Balfour on the far left. Mount Thompson on the right. Mount Gordon is the long snowy ridge on the right behind Thompson. Mount Jimmy Simpson is the mountain above Peyto Lake.
Looking far South to the ...
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Looking far North West. South Twin and North Twin on the left. Mount Amery in the center. Mount Athabasca on the right.
Looking far North West. South ...
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The very beautiful panorama from the summit.
The very beautiful panorama ...
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A zoomed in section of Mistaya Lake. I took this photo to get an idea of how feasible it would be to cross the Mistaya River where it flows into Mistaya Lake. It looks like it fans out pretty good.
A zoomed in section of ...
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The Selkirks in the distance looking far South West.
The Selkirks in the distance ...
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Me, Toshiko and Kazuyuki on the summit.
Me, Toshiko and Kazuyuki on ...
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Simpson Peak, Recondite Peak and Mount Augusta to the far East. Osgood Peak is the peak in front of Recondite Peak.
Simpson Peak, Recondite Peak ...
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Toshiko scrambling down the crux.
Toshiko scrambling down the ...
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Toshiko scrambling down the crux.
Toshiko scrambling down the ...
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Toshiko scrambling down the crux.
Toshiko scrambling down the ...
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Looking back up to the North and South summits of Mount Noyes.
Looking back up to the North ...
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Toshiko sliding down a snow/ice section.
Toshiko sliding down a ...
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Toshiko sliding down a snow/ice section.
Toshiko sliding down a ...
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Toshiko looking up at a huge boulder we passed. Couldn't find an easy way up it.
Toshiko looking up at a huge ...
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Coming down the scree.
Coming down the scree.
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A cool marmot we passed at the bottom of the South West ascent valley.
A cool marmot we passed at ...
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Looking back up the valley.
Looking back up the valley.
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A last look at Mount Noyes.
A last look at Mount Noyes.
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Mount Weed from the parkway.
Mount Weed from the parkway.

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